Sunday, December 31, 2006

Digging in my pack: the camp kitchen


This lightweight setup, small enough for a daypack, yet sufficient for a weekend, is mostly used to boil water. It will also heat canned or refrigerated foods on those tailgate occasions or in the cabin. Adding my lightweight fry- pan, I can toast tortillas or scramble eggs. The burner is a shortcoming, though. With only two speeds: high and off, I'm always looking for ways to make it simmer; haven't solved that yet. If I want to really cook, I must resort to a gasoline stove or a campfire. Elements of this set, clockwise from the top:
  • Fuel bottle -- reincarnation of a soft- drink container. At 20 ounces, it is too large (that is enough capacity for a whole week), but I like the shape, and will eventually find a better size. Note the top was replaced with a red one and there is a bright yellow label... on a thirsty day, I sure don't want to confuse this with a water bottle. The dark green band is a supply of duct tape for repairs and first- aid.
  • Soup mug -- a relatively new addition; I bought one of these at Wally- world about a year ago and it quickly became an essential. This mug is microwaveable, so it sees some domestic use, too. The snap- on lid keeps it clean, holds in heat and steam, keeps bugs and debris out of its contents, and makes it handy for packing loose items. It is light in weight and holds in heat pretty well; a wide, rounded interior makes it easy to clean. The 2- cup capacity is ample for food or drink; I use this mug to make a big, double- dose, cup of coffee in the morning. A handle makes the mug convenient to eat from in camp situations lacking a dining table. My mug sees most of its use for making coffee and drink mixes and for re- hydrating dry- mix foods (just- add- boiling- water).
  • Titanium bowl-- this was my first venture into Ti- ware and I have been fairly satisfied. This metal is only slightly lighter than aluminum, but it is more durable...doesn't get all smashed in the pack. Cooking in titanium requires care to avoid scorching (heat transfer is faster than aluminum), but can be accomplished with my white- gas stoves and plenty of liquids in the bowl. Best uses of the Ti- bowl seem to be boiling water, re- hydrating dry mixes, and making soups… heat water, dump in the mix, stir, and eat. The 22- ounce size is just right for cooking ramen noodles and such foods for re- hydration; it will also hold (careful!) a can of condensed soup plus a can of water.
  • Pot grabber—these little pliers are lightweight and are notched to grasp over a pot rim and handle hot cookware. This is almost indispensable for handling stove components and vessels such as the Ti- bowl or my skillet (both lack handles).
  • Coffee bag— an absolute essential…been using these for years. For solo camping, they strike the best balance of palatability and convenience of preparation. In fact, I took one of these to work everyday and microwaved my midday “fix” of caffeine.
  • Fuel measure vial—I marked graduations at one and two tablespoons on this screw- capped bottle. Fuel measurement helps to avoid waste and I can dump a charge into the stove and cap up a second shot for next time (pre- measuring is especially appreciated for that morning cup of wake- me- up coffee).
  • Spoon—best utensil for all- around cooking, eating, stirring, and dipping “unknowns” from the cook- pot. This teaspoon is lighter in weight, but I really prefer a tablespoon.
  • Wire- rimmed cup—this one is similar to the Sierra cup but, with a 2 cup volume, it is large enough to cook solo meals. A regular Sierra cup also works, but the minimal savings of weight and size don’t justify the diminished versatility. I improvised a lid from a can- end by smoothing the edges and screwing a small wood “knob” to the center. The lid makes a noticeable difference in boil time and fuel economy. That rim of stainless steel, rolled over another metal (aluminum, I think), draws the heat away from the surface, allowing hot drinks to be sipped directly from the cup/pot (have you ever drunk anything hot from the old- time tin cups?
  • Alcohol burner—just a small aluminum can (this one was potted meat, I think). I’ve tried a number of home- made burner designs from the internet, a military type, and a variety of can sizes and shapes. This one works fine for heating water, is sturdy enough, doesn’t rust, and is common enough for easy replacement. Buddy- burners and NuWick candles work with my setup and a handful of wood fire could probably be substituted. However, the soot and the lingering burnt- odors can be avoided by burning denatured alcohol. Alcohol is a bit expensive, but it is convenient and is commonly available. There are no valves or moving parts; no pumping or priming is required; spilled fuel is not very hazardous and evaporates quickly. Just dump in the fuel and light up… the simplicity is beneficial for bleary- eyed preparation of that morning coffee.
  • Wind screen—another can; this is a No. 2 tomato can with a cross of coat- hanger wire and some vent holes drilled around the base and top. This one, my first try, is a bit rough but I have sentimental attachment. I have since made some that were considerably neater. This can is steel, so I have to worry about rusting; maybe I’ll find an aluminum one sometime. The cross- wires are positioned to allow the wire- rimmed cup to nest fully inside the bottom of the wind screen. Upright over the burner, the wind screen extends partly up the cup and holds in the heat. I drilled an excess of ventilation at the base and about half as much at the top. It took some trial- and- error adjustment to get it right and avoid the flame being snuffed by pans which covered the entire top of the wind screen. My current cook- system is simple, cheap, and adequate for solo use. With a little juggling, it can feed two, but will never completely supplant my other camp cooking gear.

Wednesday, December 06, 2006

Butterscotch GORP

OK, maybe it technically isn’t GORP, but it’s a pretty good trail mix. Here is a concoction I have been using lately. I mix it as I do my old standard raisin- peanut- M&M batch. Just dump together equal volumes of ingredients, stir or shake to distribute evenly, and add ingredients to adjust proportions to taste:

  • Butterscotch baking chips
  • Goldfish snack crackers
  • Raisins
I haven’t calculated and compared the nutritional profile to traditional GORP, but it is probably a little lower in fat, sodium, and calories. The butterscotch chips can withstand more warm weather than chocolate chips, but are not as durable as M&M’s. The flavor is great, but a bit sweet, and it’s a good change from my usual mix. That butterscotch emits quite a perfume, so I close it up tight to avoid scaring the wildlife. Might be best to avoid it in bear territory, too.

Monday, November 20, 2006

How to nap

I retired, mostly, but still have not settled into a routine; there are already not enough hours, and I seem to run out of steam at the end of the day. I tried brief rests or doing paperwork at midday, but that did not keep me rolling. I tried napping, but that always has left me groggy for the rest of the afternoon. I recently heard a radio interview: someone had opened a Japanese- style “nap parlor” in New York City. For a few bucks, one could use an environmentally- controlled cubicle for a mid- day nap. What really caught my attention was that they served coffee or tea prior to your nap, so you could wake up alert. My light- bulbs flashed; they had it figured out! A good dose of caffeine would take about 20 minutes to kick in its stimulant effects and you could come out of your nap perked up, in addition to being rested. I had to try it and it worked like a charm, especially when I got up early and played hard all morning. This marvelous discovery has been easy to implement on days when I can control the schedule (appointments, commitments, and work often interfere). I usually have coffee with my lunch, so I just set my cell phone timer for 20 minutes (30 minutes if I need to wind down with some radio or reading). This scheme is very portable… works great in bunk, tent, or hammock. When the alarm calls me, I have consumed 20 minutes, and I am immediately ready to slip into my shoes and go some more… no lag- time lost to making coffee, dragging around, trying to come back to my senses.

Friday, October 13, 2006

Add some bright markings to camouflage gear

I use my hunting gear a lot… depend on it to do service also for camping, fishing, and around the house or cabin. Many items are camouflage these days, so if you drop something, it may require and hands- and- knees searching. I know that camouflage sells; it lends a sexy, outdoorsy image to all kinds of products. Addition of bright markings on your camo gear can avoid some of these frustrating searches through the leaves. Mark hard -surfaced items such as knives and flashlights with a bright spot of paint, tape, or nail polish. On fabric items like glove or head nets, I often staple a short tag of orange flagging… the staple is easy to remove; keep it small enough so it won’t get in the way or flutter in the breeze.

Thursday, October 12, 2006

Anemometry for the archer

I often hang a piece of thread from my bow, to detect air currents. This is unnecessary for obvious breezes. On still mornings, however, only a slight thermal draft can carry your scent to old mossy- horns and give your position away. I use a white or bright- colored thread and keep an eye out for it to sway with moving air. We’ve all seen the feather decorations on Indians’ bows and lances. I’d stake a bet that those were not just statements of vanity, but served utilitarian purposes, by drifting and swaying in air currents.

Upgraded belt quiver

I stiffened and padded my belt quiver by inserting a rolled piece of closed- cell craft foam which doesn’t absorb water. An inverted spray- can cap protects the end from puncture by arrow points. I like the light weight, quietness, and good camouflage of the cloth quiver, and it can be lashed to my backpack.

Solar shower

Ya learn sumpthin’ every day if you’re not careful! I have had several of those solar showers over the years and they worked OK for backcountry cleanups. My current one has a transparent side and the inner backing is black- colored. It also has a thermometer- thingy. This one is small, a single- use size. Just fill it with water, lay it out in the sunshine, and in a few minutes you have a luke- warm shower. Cold breezes are a definite drawback in this activity, as you alternate between warm water, cold breeze, warm water, and cold breeze again. One doesn’t dawdle in this kind of shower; perhaps that is how they justify such a small, lightweight tank size. Anyway, I went through the routine, hung the sun- heated water, opened the spray valve… and it nearly scalded me! I expected the usual luke- warm water and didn’t know it could even get that hot. So, I was wet, the breeze was cold, the water was hot. I hadn’t brought extra water to add and it would take too long to temper down by itself. I just had to make- do, so I suffered in the breeze, used the hot water sparingly, and hurried as best I could. Lessons learned: the water can get too hot; that thermometer was not just a marketing gimmick, it was there for a purpose; next time I will check the temperature.

Tree seat


Tree seats work well for my archery stand- hunting. These gizmos cinch up to a tree and a padded platform folds down for comfortable seating at ground level. The height can be adjusted as needed and the tree trunk gives a backdrop to break up the human outline. Although I can draw my bow from kneeling or squatting positions, standing and sitting offer better stability. Also, long waits and holding still are much easier from the seated position. It is easy to rise upright from a sitting position. Truth be known, I’m getting too old to be kneeling or sitting on the cold, wet ground. Tree seats are lightweight and can be hand- carried. They are also readily carried in a backpack or strapped to its outside. Lately, I have been transporting my tree seat in a military surplus bag with a shoulder strap. For very little additional weight, the bag keeps the attachment straps from hanging loose and helps quiet their metal buckles.

Spider switch


Those banana spiders in my woods have gotten bigger by this time of year, their webs are larger, stretch over more area, they’re yellow and more sticky, now. I hate walking into those things, especially in the dark. Now, I like spiders as much as anyone and I wish to live and let- live. However, I come unglued at the seams when I am standing out in the woods, in the pitch dark, with sticky spider silk across my face and a big, ugly spider crawling up my neck. I often carry a “spider switch” before me or hold up my bow to catch the web before it gets to me. I don’t want to harm the poor spider; it’s just out there trying to make a living. After a few passes over the trail, the spiders stop building webs there. I fear they may starve or be unable to make enough silk for webs, but I prefer to think they just moved elsewhere.

GORP container

I’ve been packing my day’s GORP supply in a plastic peanut butter jar. I have found that it is easier to unscrew the lid and “sip” from the jar than to worry with zip- top bags and dirty hands.

By the way, I couldn’t find the M & M’s so I substituted dark chocolate chips, this time. They taste great and don’t warm up to a runny mess like milk chocolate. However, they still melt in your hand before they get to your mouth. Next time I will be persistent and find the M & M’s.

KISS: keeping arrow points tight

Here is an archery tip to keep those screw- in points from loosening on your arrows. I wrestled with this problem for years, tried the lock washers and the little plastic rings marketed specifically to remedy this problem. Then, I ran across this idea somewhere: it's a simple solution and rarely mentioned; maybe it is so obvious and widely used that I was the only one left out. Simply rub a little bowstring wax on the point's threaded shank and screw it into the arrow shaft. That sticky beeswax will keep the point from rattling loose.

KISS: Simplifying the bow setup


I have been mindful of a “Keep- It- Simple- Stupid” philosophy in recent years, and it seems particularly salient to me since my retirement. Hunting bows have become finely tuned pieces of high- tech equipment. I guess I’m unsophisticated, or maybe just too lazy to maintain such precision equipment. My own compound bow is relative simple; it doesn’t deliver the sizzling arrow speeds or have lighted sight pins, custom arrow launcher, overdraw, stabilizer, etc. It’s a very mundane 20th century model, without the added bells and whistles, although it handles and shoots well enough. However, this year, my compound has remained relegated to the closet and I’m hunting with my old recurve. I have made a few modifications, that further simplify my setup.

First, I have taken the bow quiver off and gone back to a tube quiver carried on my belt, shoulder, or backpack.

Next, I have reverted to feather fletching on the arrows, instead of plastic vanes. I fear that I may regret this move in rainy weather. Those vanes shed water, but feathers soak it up. I have, at times, protected the feathers with a plastic bag over the quiver.

This change to feathers allowed me to remove the arrow rest and revert to shooting off the arrow shelf, providing a more natural feel and handling, and I have found satisfaction in this old- fashioned approach.

I have kept the brush buttons and the camouflage taping on the limbs.

A final addition, the no- glove accessory, is new to me. These have been around for years, always looked like a good idea, and I had heard they were popular for bow fishing. They consist of rubber cylinders that thread onto the bowstring and are positioned above and below the arrow at the appropriate nock point. The rubber provides enough padding, so a glove or tab is unnecessary for shooting. Some claim that arrow speed is diminished, but I believe my setup could still drive an arrow completely through a deer. I have been very satisfied with the no- glove approach by virtue of it eliminating a vital component that can be lost or can be forgotten at home; it stays right there on the bow. I recall arriving at a hunt once, without my glove, and wondering all morning whether I could cleanly release an arrow with cold, bare bingers on the string. I have noticed another significant advantage, the elimination of string pinch. With my short bow, I have always suffered sore fingers where the sharp angle of the drawn bowstring pressed the fingers into the arrow nock. Leaving off the glove has left more space and completely eliminated those sore spots where my fingers contact the arrow nock.

Water- treatment options

Water filtration systems have become popular for back- country water purification. I have read of them, but not tried them for my own use. They are a bit heavy, pricey, and high- tech for me, and I have breeched a lot of microbial filters in my research and industry work, so I’m skeptical.

The iodine- based Potable Aqua tablets are convenient and readily available, but the iodine taste is objectionable to me, especially at 2- tablets per liter dosing recommended on the label. Some state that one tablet per liter is sufficient for clear water, but the taste is still an issue for me. Vitamin C is said to neutralize the iodine taste, but my experiments with Tang drink mix did not make it much better.

I tried the Micropur brand of chlorine dioxide tablets, and it tasted like drinking from a swimming pool. I like it better than the iodine treatment, however. Treatment time takes 4 hours, rather than the half- hour of the iodine product. I noticed that the product continued to improve somewhat, over time.

Red Cross- recommended water treatment is to boil, filter, and treat the questionable water supply with bleach, adding 16 drops per gallon or 4 drops per quart. REI states on their website, that 2 drops per liter is enough for clear water, but notes that encysted protozoa may be resistant to both chlorine and iodine treatments. I have used hypochlorite (bleach) treatment for industrial water supplies. It is cheap and easy, and one can become acclimated to the taste.

Bottom line is, if one is thirsty enough, it’s all good. I chemically- treat or boil surface waters, to be safe. It is important to keep up hydration for good health and peak performance. Hot beverages, soups and sauces are convenient and tasty ways to get fluid into your system, and are easily worked into a camper's menu.

Sunday, September 24, 2006

Deer can smell you!

That’s alright; I can sometimes smell them, too. You gotta pay attention to air movements; if he’s downwind, he’ll smell you. Although I acknowledge that fact, any effort to reduce the scent I’m wearing seems beneficial. I have been skeptical of the scent- blocking clothes which have been available in recent years and I have not tried them; they are expensive and too high- tech for my tastes. However, I observe several precautions to control scent:

  • Rubber- bottomed boots track less scent on the trails and around the stand.
  • Keep clean, but avoid scented soaps
  • No after- shave scents, use unscented deodorants.
  • Avoid scented toothpastes; use baking soda
  • Use unscented bug dope, and apply it before nearing the stand.
  • Permethrin spray is available to treat clothing, not skin, and lasts through washing. It has some scent, but it seems much less than the DEET- based sprays.
  • I don’t use cover scents on my person, except an occasional application to my boots, to cover my trail.
  • I pump my gasoline after work, don’t wait until I’m headed for the woods and wearing my hunting garb. Those gasoline odors stick to skin, clothing, and boots.
  • Around camp, I avoid the exhaust odors of cars, generators, chain saws, ATV’s, cigarettes, cooking, and campfires.

Hunting clothes


Here’s another of those pre- season tasks I consider essential. I always wash my hunting clothes just prior to opening day and wrap them in bags so they won’t pick up the odors of people, dogs, cooking, chemicals, after- shave, etc. I use those scent- free sport detergents. They are convenient, a bottle lasts all year, and it truly seems to make a difference. I have been impressed by these sport detergents, but maybe I’m just kidding myself with the scent- free aspect. I learned long ago that deer have powerful senses of smell; if he’s downwind, he’ll know I’m there. You just gotta watch for air movements, and any little thermal air current can drift your scent.

I suspect the absence of UV brighteners is significant with these sport detergents. These detergents are formulated without any of the bluing agents that light up in ultraviolet light. In low- light conditions, the plastic inserts in the new- fangled bow and gun sights gather enough UV radiation to make them visible for easier aiming. Maybe it actually is the same with laundry bluing. Advertisers say so: that washing in regular laundry detergents makes your clothes fluoresce enough to be more visible to game. I have tried to test this idea in long- wave UV, and there might have been some visible glow. It was not a very substantial one, but maybe the wavelength was wrong. I do, however, believe that the sport- washes make a difference in practice. I have gotten much closer to wildlife since I started washing my hunting clothes with these products. And it’s not only the deer; it helped with other critters, too. Chipmunks and squirrels didn’t spot me as readily and raise their chirping, scolding rackets. Avoiding those alarms seemed to further improve my chances of seeing a deer. There’s a down side, though. It has been disconcerting to have chipmunks run across my boot and squirrels peek around the tree trunk I’m leaning against.

Friday, September 22, 2006

Hunting boots


Anticipating next weekend’s opening of bowhunting, it’s time to get my gear ready. Part of my yearly ritual is to seal the stitching and oil the leather of my hunting boots. I’ve been wearing these rubber- bottomed boots for a number of years; this is probably my third pair. They are from L. L. Bean and they cost too much, but those folks offer a size that actually fits me. These boots are not well ventilated for hot, dry summer conditions but they are great the rest of the time. The rubber bottoms are prone to cuts and punctures and abrasion by cement surfaces… I wear them to play outdoors, and not for work. They are light in weight. The chain- link tread gives traction on slippery ground but resists caking with mud and is easily cleaned with a squirt of water. My 10- inch boots are just right for puddles and small streams, but they are available up to your knees. The soles are flexible and you can feel ground contours and sticks that might snap. The foam insoles are removable for drying and provide insulation from the cold ground.


I wasn’t wearing these boots in 2004 when I crashed that ladder, something I am reminded of every time I ache from weather changes. My old boots were punctured, torn, and worn out. Actually, you can send old boots back to L. L. Bean for repairs; they’ll even stitch on new rubber bottoms. I didn’t want to buy new boots just then, and couldn’t decide whether repair would be cost- effective. I decided I must just make do with what I had… talk about not cost- effective! The lugged soles I was wearing caused me to get hung on the ladder rung and I was trapped for the ride down.

Thursday, September 14, 2006

Chocolate Pancakes

¼ C Pancake mix (just- add- water)

1 Envelope instant hot cocoa mix

¼ C Water

I usually dole out the pancake mix in a measuring cup, and it serves as the mixing vessel, too. Pre- measure in a disposable plastic bag and you won’t have the cup to wash. Mix dry ingredients and blend in the water (may need an additional spoon of water for desired batter consistency). Pancake batter usually has some lumps; just bang it together and griddle it in a greased skillet, portioning the mix into 3 or 4 pancakes. Cook over low heat and flip when the surface appears set; the second side doesn’t take long to cook. Chocolate pancakes are great plain, or top with peanut butter, margarine, syrup, honey, fruit, or what- have- you.

A nutty idea for hot cocoa

High- activity outdoor fun can consume lots of energy, so calorie- dense foods are a boon to backpackers and day- hikers. Here is a delicious energy pick- me- up that is quick, easy, and packs well. Simply stir up a mug of instant cocoa mix. The single- serving envelopes are widely available, and all you need is hot water. Blend a dollop of peanut butter into your steaming drink and enjoy. I always have peanut butter in my pack. I like the stuff, it has many uses, and it keeps a long time if protected from moisture and light. Per teaspoon, peanut butter adds more than 30 Calories, with about 2 ½ grams of fat, plus a little protein and carbohydrate. You adventurous spirits might prefer the chunky- style.